The signet ring, referred to as the ‘gentleman’s ring’, has been regarded as a symbol of family heritage for centuries. For many centuries, signet rings bore the coat of arms or the family crest engraved in reverse so it could be pressed into wax or soft clay and used as an authoritative seal on documents.
Sealing in this way was considered authentic and official, and something that could not be forged. It is because of this reason that signet rings were also known as ‘seal rings’.
The History of Signet Ring
Authoritative seals were used in the earliest civilisations. Engraved cylindrical seals that were made of stone were embraced in ancient Mesopotamia for creating impressions in clay. Primitive pottery and stone rings with the names of gods in hieroglyphics dating back to Ancient Egypt were worn by Pharaohs. Thereafter, signet rings started to take the appearance by the Late Bronze Age (2300 BC) as we recognize today. From 323 BC, signet rings were worn by a few members of the royal families and officials of authority.
Over time, the introduction of sealing wax meant a transition for signet rings to intaglio from being made with a raised carving. In most royal chanceries (medical writing offices), the use of wax seals started growing up by the end of the 10th century. Person of nobility was seen wearing signet rings engraved with the coat of arms or their family’s crest. However, sealing in was started to become less elitist and freemen adopted the practice by the middle of the 13th century.
With the surge of the bourgeoisie and the absence of a coat of arms, signet rings were soon embraced by the middle classes for denoting sophistication. The 17th century saw a decline in the popularity of signet rings but the trend reversed towards the end of the 18th century. The most common stones used for signet rings in the 18th century were bloodstone, cornelian, amethyst, garnet, chrysoprase, ruby, and chalcedony.
The credit for the popularity of signet rings in Britain can easily be given to King Edward II who decreed that all official documents be signed and stamped with his own signet ring.
These rings became a form of branding among the growing merchant class during the Renaissance. European merchants started splitting up shipments among caravans and boats to cut down on the risks of theft and privacy when they started transporting goods overseas through the Silk Route. Signet rings were embraced by merchants for stamping seals on their shipments, which made it easier to identify goods on arrival.
Around the same time, people started embracing memorial signet rings that were often inscribed with the name or initials of a loved one as a type of mourning jewellery.
Signet Rings Today
In today’s times, the elitism linked with signet rings has fallen a bit. The majority of people still have held on to their family crests getting engraved on their signet rings while others have started to be more creative. Today, signet rings are worn as wedding rings. Military men often wear signet rings to reflect status or rank and these rings are also popular among people who have the right to bear arms.
How to Choose the Shape of Your Signet Ring?
Here are some of the most popular signet ring shapes:
- Marquise: An unusually elegant diamond shape.
- Round: Considered to be more contemporary in nature than the traditional oval.
- Oxford Oval: Rated as the most traditional and popular signet ring shape.
- Cushion: A favorite during the Victorian era.
How to Wear Signet Rings?
Signet rings were traditionally worn on the “pinkie” finger of the non-dominant hand. For instance, right-handed people used to wear the ring on the small “pinkie” of their left hand and vice versa. Men often wear signet rings on their left little fingers these days. However, there are no hard and fast rules as some wear it on their middle finger and some on their third ‘ring’ finger.
Some Little Known Facts
- Prince Charles wears a signet ring (alongside his wedding ring) adorned with the fleur-de-lis.
- The signet ring of a Pope is ceremonially destroyed by hammering on his death.
- The study of authoritative seals is known as sphragistics or sigillography.
- Sir Winston Churchill used to wear a signet ring with his family crest on his third finger.
In today’s times, signet rings are no longer used as authoritative seals as most documents are authenticated in today’s digital world with the click of a mouse. However, how about imaging that there is still a little room left for the old ways? Of course, there is no denying the fact that we cannot be expected to start melting wax for signs of our checkbook stubs or car insurance forms. After all, the concept of practicality has been lost paving the way for convenience and swiftness but there is undoubtedly a lot of charm, not to mention cache when you slip on a signet.
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